Walk two blocks west from Ocean Drive at 10th Street and the temperature of the neighbourhood changes. Washington Avenue is the working spine of South Beach: pharmacies, hardware, bail bonds, nightclubs, a courthouse. On its corner at 10th stands a heavy ochre building with an extravagantly carved cast-stone doorway, and almost nobody who came to Miami Beach for the beach goes in.
The building was finished in 1927 as the Washington Storage Company — a vault where wealthy seasonal residents left their furniture, paintings and silver over the summer while they went north. It is Mediterranean Revival, not Art Deco, which is worth registering on a street where everything else is sold as deco. Its ornament is applied and Spanish; the deco buildings a block east strip ornament away and get their effect from geometry. Two styles, one decade, three hundred metres apart.
Mitchell Wolfson Jr, heir to a Miami cinema fortune, started storing his own collection in the building, then bought it, then filled it. What he was collecting was not fine art. It was the applied stuff of modern life between roughly 1850 and 1950: posters, furniture, appliances, world's fair souvenirs, industrial models, architectural fragments, political propaganda from fascist Italy, Nazi Germany, the Soviet Union, Britain and the United States alike. Counts published for the collection range from tens of thousands to two hundred thousand objects depending on what is being counted; well over a hundred thousand is safe. He gave it to Florida International University in 1997.
The argument the museum makes is that design is never neutral. A chair, a poster, a radio cabinet and a rally banner are all doing persuasion, and between 1850 and 1950 they were doing it at industrial scale, in every direction, including directions that ended in mass death. The displays do not flatter the objects.
Then you walk out onto Washington Avenue at four in the afternoon, and the deco hotels you saw this morning, built in exactly those years, look different. That reframing is the best thing any museum on this island does.