Walk south along the beach from 10th Street and something changes at about 5th. The hotels stop, the crowd thins, the noise drops away behind you, and the last half mile of Miami Beach turns into something closer to a residential neighbourhood with a very good park at the end of it.
That is the point of South Pointe. It is the antidote to the deco strip, fifteen minutes on foot from the middle of it, and the single best move available to anyone who has had enough of Ocean Drive without wanting to leave the island.
The park itself is about seventeen acres, rebuilt and reopened in 2009 with a landscape design that works with the ground rather than flattening it: serpentine walkways rising over low limestone outcrops, sea grape and palm, raised lookouts, a splash pad, wide lawns and a functioning navigational light that doubles as sculpture. After a week of straight streets on a grid it is a relief simply as a shape.
The island ends here because of Government Cut, the shipping channel dredged in 1905 to give ocean-going vessels a direct route into the Port of Miami. The channel is why there is a jetty, why there is a surf break, why the current near the rocks is dangerous, and why the strip of land you can see across the water — Fisher Island, reachable only by ferry — is separate at all.
Behind the park sits South of Fifth, the neighbourhood locals call SoFi. It is the quietest and most expensive part of South Beach: low-rise streets, a serious restaurant district, no clubs, and a beach that most visitors never reach because it is ten blocks past where the guidebooks stop.
Bring shoes you can walk in and plan the trip one way. The walk down is the good part; the walk back at the end of a long day is not.